There is nothing. Nothing for an eternity. I’ve just opened my eyes on our bus from Lima to Arequipa in Peru. Chris is in the seat to my left, fast asleep. I’ve opened the curtain to orientate myself and i cannot believe what i am seeing. We’re on a pass, wedged between the Pacific coastline and the Peruvian desert. Our bus is teetering on a cliff that drops down to the bleak ocean. It’s 6:30 am and the first rays of sunlight are illuminating the dunes, bathing them in a pinkish-orange glow. The land around us is so barren and wild that not a single thing can be seen living or growing- it’s spectacular.


The wind has driven tracts of sand into the road, rocks have tumbled down the steep slopes and lie strewn amongst burst truck tyres. I cannot imagine anything surviving in such an inhospitable environment.

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