Category Archives: Guatemala

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UNDER THE SPELL OF SUCHITOTO After our much dreaded departure from the land of black beans and tortillas (Guatemala) Chris and i have entered El Salvador. A succession of not-so-amazing stops in conjunction with El Salvador’s nightmarish transport network-it takes … Continue reading

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MARKET DAY IN THE GUATEMALAN HIGHLANDS

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Sauntering up a dirt road flanked by an endless run of market stalls, each one wedged in tighter than the next and exploding with handcrafts, men and women shout out their offers, some invite me in for a look with a … Continue reading

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ESMERALDA AND THE FATEFUL FATSKIN

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We arrived in Quetzaltenango (also called Xela) on a cold and drizzly Wednesday afternoon and were met by a bustling city, sprawling and grubby. For the duration of our death-defying chicken bus ride here, the faces of Telma, Diego and … Continue reading

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CALLING ON THE DEPARTED IN SAN JUAN LA LAGUNA

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Walking uphill from the house to the cemetery we become part of a centrifugal force in which groups of families large and small join together from branching streets, magnetised toward the town cemetery on foot. Men, women and children fill … Continue reading

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CUSTOM AND CELEBRATION

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Today is Jaime’s birthday and we were privileged to celebrate it with him and the family in his home where we sleep each night. Preparations began early with a flurry of cooking after breakfast. Graciela dressed me up in Telmas … Continue reading

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THE ROAD LESS TRAVELED

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I have just woken up in someone else’s bed, somebody else’s home, in a town that I do not know. Typically this would induce panic, but on the contrary I feel welcome. We arrived in the quiet village of San … Continue reading

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CORN SOUP AND CRUMBLING RELICS

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 This last week was spent in the pretty (and popular) town of Antigua in Guatemala. Like so many other post colonial towns in Central America its narrow cobbled streets are lined with colourfully painted shops and restaurants, local cafes wedged in between and little … Continue reading

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